Climbing Guide
By Wilfred Tok (started compilation in 2006)
Monday, June 19, 2006
Rock Climbing Routes - East Plateau
Very limited information is available for the Eastern and Western Plateau. Any climbers who have knowledge of route information, please write to info@adventurefactors.com We are currently compiling information to make them available online. We appreciate your help.
Phallus Peak
Approach: From top of Bowen's Route, Phallus Peak is the first prominent pinnacle on the L. Scramble up slabs and contour around to west face.
West Face Route: 35m, HVD
Stand by a large boulder. Trend R on vertical and loose rock for about 30m until a large boulder can be seen balanced directly above on the summit. Move left under boulder and on up to the summit. Walshawe and Simpson - 18.8.69
West Face Left Crack Route: 25m, S
Two obvious broken cracklines may be climbed. This route follows the L crackline which leads straight up to the N summit block. A gentle angle leads to vertical, loose ground near the top. Descend: Traverse to the S side of the peak and walk off.
King Edward Peak
North face: 135m, V.S
From Sayat-Sayat up to Lion's Head, down the north side, across steep slabs. Traverse diagonally downwards until the foot of cliff is reached.
Pitch 01 25m, V.Diff.
Follow rough line diagonally upwards from foot of cliff until the prominent corner of a grassy traverse is reached. Much of this is loose.
Pitch 02 30m, Diff.
Traverse across grassy ledge for 30m
Pitch 03 25m, Diff.
Continue to traverse along ledge and around bulge. Traverse becomes exposed but holds are plentiful and piton protection is good.
Pitch 04 20m, S
Move up flake/crack on to face below red overhang. The rock is very rotten here. Belay at apex of face under overhang. Good belay. An opposition belay required for the next pitch.
Pitch 05 15m, V.S
(Crux) Traverse R over steep slabs. Negative hand holds but small sufficient foot holds. Move round corner and on to grassy ledge, piton and flake belay. This pitch is exposed - very exposed.
Pitch 06 10m, S
Move up broken crack. Take care. The rock is loose and rotten to the top. Belay halk way up crack. (Large rock dislodged from this belay half severed the rope).
Pitch 07 10m, S
Continue up crack. Take care - still loose and rotten. Belay over top.
Climbers: Spilsbury and Oliver, 10.3.67
Please rope up. Five full pitches till easy going scrambling to the summit of King Edward Peak is possible. Descend: by 2 abseils on the south face.
Rock Climbing Routes - West Plateau
Much more climbing has been done on the Western Plateau than the Eastern Plateau. However, not all of the peaks listed below are yet represented in this on-line guide. Any climbers who have knowledge of route information, please write to info@adventurefactors.com
Lion's Head
Approach: From sayat sayat, head E keeping level by cutting up past old toilet under white sewage pipe. Follow carins to far L side of col between Tunku Abdul Rahman Peak and Lion's Head. Traverse col to base of a short, loose arete leading to the base of a chimney/groove.
Lion's Head Direct: 5.7
Start at the base of the loose arete.
Pitch 01
Carefully climb arete to reach the bottom of an obvious chimney/groove.
Pitch 02
Climb the chimney up and R until it ends. Finish by moving L to reach the summit. Descend: Abseil off the east face to the col betweem Lion's Head and King Edward. Either continue to King Edward, the east plateau and Bowen's route or abseil 150m down the north face from a block with a stupidly placed bolt in the col.
Kinabalu South Peak
East Face, South Chimney: 30m, S
Looking at the east face of Kinabalu South Peak as you walk up from Sayat Sayat, there is an obvious chimney on the far L side going up to the summit ridge. Protection is desperate. About 5m R and up from the top of the chimney is an old loose piton belay. The first climbers failed to complete the climb right to the actual summit. The 2nd pitch along the summit ridge was finished by a Royal Marine party later. From the top of the chimney they traversed along the obvious summit ridge to the top.
Climbers: Briggs & Khagendrabahdur, 16.8.69
Spice World: 50m, S
On the L-side of the face, this climb follows a blocky crack/seam between the obvious red wall on the R and the vegetated chimney to the L. The weakness works its way up to a large detached block above which is a small alcove.
Pitch 01 35m, S
Follow line to block, then make awkward moves over block (crux) into the short, vegetated loose alcove. Belay.
Pitch 02 15m, D
Scramble to back of large ledge above belay and climb up short corner to reach summit ridge. Easy scrambling up ridge to attain summit.
Climbers: Brent Raymond, Mark Davidson, Michael Jaimen, 2.10.98
East Face, Central Route: 90m, 5.7
2 - 3 pitches. A direct line to the summit with pleasant climbing. Start at a conspicuous 5m high flake from the ledge at the bottom of the face, on the L side of the central slab. Wander up grooves in the central slab to obvious R-leaning crack line that leads directly to the summit. There are several bolts that might have been used for aid towards the top.
Climbers: Ian Brown, Keith Williams, 13.9.1993
North-East Arete: 70m, 5.10a
Look for a line of bolts running up the NE-arete on the R of the east face. Descend: Easy descent down slabs and around north side of peak to base of climbs.
St John's Peak
North Face - Finale Route: 240m, HS
Pitch 01 30m, Mod
Start on extreme northern tip of foot of the face. Easy scrambling up to almost any position under the apex of the overhang. Look out fora pronounced "V" in the face which can only be seen when on the face.
Pitch 02 35m, Easy Diff.
Traverse to the R over steeper but firmer slabs. From here, the best and firmest line can be seen running up into the apex of the overhang. Piton belay.
Pitch 03 30m, HS (crux)
A series of small ledges and overhangs of consistent difficulty and exposure for 30m upwards. There are ampleopportunities for both pitons and runners, but the rock has hollow ring and cannot be trusted (10 runners used on this pitch). The belay point in the apex is a loose slab with 2.5 inch blade piton behind it and a loose piton on L. Good stance however.
Pitch 04 25m, HS
The best and safest line steeply upwards to the R under overhanging bulge of the cliffs. No good protection for about 5m, the slabs then have good piton points, and the angle eases off.
Pitch 05 120m, Easy Mod.
Scramble to the ridge and then to the summit.
Climbers: Oliver and Spilsbury, 16.3.1967 (4 hours)
East Face Right: 100m, 5.7
From the summit trail at around 8km, walk straight across easy terrain to the base of the East Face. For climbs starting at the col between St John's and Low's, followthe summit trail to just below Low's Peak then contour around to center of col. Start in col between St.John's and Low's Peak at the extreme north endof the East Face. Scramble up towards St Johns and belay at the base of slabby arete directly under the apex of overhanging arete above.
Pitch 01 40m, 5.6
Climb up from the belay following the arete to a piton. Traverse L onto the east face past another piton and 2 ring-bolts to reach the base of a vertical crack/groove with a ring-bolt as its base. Belay.
Pitch 02 50m, 5.6
A delightful pitch straight up well protected crack to a large sloping ledge. Belay.
Pitch 03 15m. 5.7
Continue up and L on very poorly protected rock to large ledge directly underneath the L- most summit block. Belay at 2 bolts.
East Face Direct: 20m, 5.7
Start at the center of the base of the slabby east face. Scramble up easy slabs until ground steepens and belay amongst slabs. Wander up face aiming for R slanting weakness leading to the L end of a large sloping ledge. Belay on the ledge with 2 bolts. Either abseil route or continue straight up over poor protections to ledge below L-most summit block with 2 bolts.
Grey Slab: 140m, 5.6
Start same as E.Face Direct but trends L.
Pitch 01 50m
Climb slab above, eventually moving R to belay at a good but not very obvious crack just L of a small quartz oevrlap.
Pitch 02 40m
The slab above is steeper and with several small overlaps. Trend up L and then back R to belay in small alcove at the back of which is a good crack.
Pitch 03 25m
Step L then climb up R to gain the diagonal ramp. Follow this easily to good belays.
Pitch 04 25m
Continue diagonally R up the ramp until it ends (good nut, last runner). Just above this (sling on bolts visible off-route up right), move L on to steeper wall. Climb this on shallow pockets (crux) trending up and L, ending at a notch in the skyline ridge.
Climbers: Rob Davies & Roy Lindsay, 8.4.1998
Ugly Sisters Peak
North Ridge, North Ridge Route: 50m, Mod.
Pitch 01 25m, Mod.
Start at foot of North Ridge. Very exposed. Traverse horizontally across north side of peak until the face steepens. The going is easy. Belay on any available boulder.
Pitch 02 25m, Mod.
Climb upwards into a vague gully and follow general line upwards to loose pile of summit rocks. From here one can see down the sheer South Face. Descend: By reversing climb.
Climbers: Spilsbury and Oliver, 13.3.1967
North West Arrete: 50m, Hard Diff.
Pitch 01 15m, Hard Diff.
Start 15m to R of col between Low's Peak and the Ugly Sisters. Climb straight up slab for 6m to good runner area. Traverse L 3m and into groove with large overhanging rock. Grip with both hands and swing L leg over. There is much loose rock and this movement demands confidence, but the large boulder is quite safe. Belay above boulder.
Pitch 02 20m, Mod.
Scramble and climb 20m along arete to belay in crack at obvious ledge.
Pitch 03 15m, Mod.
Carry on and up arete to summit.
Ugly Sisters variations - There are several variations to the above route, difficulty depending upon starting point and line. A moderate route runs to the north of the above route, joining it at pitch 2. A severe route exists up the south face, joining the above route on pitch 3.
Climbers: Lees and Brigg, 14.8.1969
Donkey's Ears
From Sayat Sayat follow summit trail towards Low's Peak until you can contour R across slabs to the SE base of the Donkey's Ears.
West Face, Zig Zag: 125m, Severe
Start at the centre of the west face. Traverse bottom slippery ledge for 30m until a prominent belay at corner is reached. Move diagonally up and L over a series of small ledges for 20m to a spike belay on a heathery knob. Climb over a small overhang and a steep, broken face to a prominent triangular shaped rock (30m). Traverse R along a crack on finger holds for 10m until the bottom L corner of a flake is reached. Move up L of the flake for 5m and surmount a huge chockstone. Climb on exposed face for 10m to the top.
Climbers: Pendleton and Heath, 10.12.1964
West Face, Joanne: 240m, VS
Same start as Zig Zag at centre of the west face.
Pitch 01
Climb up prominent rib on the SE side for 35m until a piton belay is reached.
Pitch 02
Continue up the rib for 3m and then follow sharp edge for another 6m. Cross a convex slab for 25m to a broken rock at the far end. Climb over broken rock to belay.
Pitch 03
Drop down 6m on small holds, pendulum and jump 3m onto a small slab belay.
Pitch 04
Climb through a small overhang, traverse along small ledge for 3m to a crack. Semi-artificial (very likely has been climbed free but grade unrecorded) up crack for 25m (4 pitons) then move to R-hand edge of a flake. Belay at piton.
Pitch 05
Climb centre of flake to a small overhang and piton. Step R and around the inside R-hand side of flake and then up to a large chockstone (5m). Join the exposed last pitch of Zig-Zag.
Climbers: Pendleton and Heath, 11.12.1964
East Pinnacles, East Face Aid Route: 30m, E4 6A
At the 8km marker along summit trail, walk up slabs towards Donkey's Ears. Head for the col between 2 peaks. Look out for bolts and pitons throughout the route.
South East Face Direct: 80m, 5.10
Approach is via the summit trail - same as above.
Pitch 01, 40m, 5.8
Pitch 02, 10m, 5.7
Pitch 03, 10m, 5.10
Pitch 04, 20m, 5.7
Tunku Abdul Rahman Peak
West Face, Tengah Grooves: 105m, Severe
From Sayat Sayat climb up towards Tunku Abdul Rahman Peak. Start climb at foot of furthest L groove on steep slabs.
Pitch 01 30m, V.Diff.
Start up 5m loose flake. Follow slab for 15m then into corner for further 5m. On to slab again for further 6m. Peg belay.
Pitch 02 25m, V.Diff.
Directly up 25m to grassy corner. Tree and peg belay.
Pitch 03 35m, Severe
(Crux) Here the groove sharpens and steepens into a perfect "V". Climb the groove for 9m on friction only. There is no natural protection. Groove becomes grassy again until it steepens. Delicate (friction) climbing for 8m. Continue up groove for 25m to tree belay under overhang.
Pitch 04 15m, V.Diff.
Traverse R. Under overhang for 100m then on to heather terrace.
Climbers: Craig and Wilson, 8.3.1967 ( 3 hours)
Skittle Alley: 170m, V.Diff.
From Sayat Sayat up to Lion's Head Peak
Pitch 01 35m, Diff.
From prominent pinnacle, cross exposed ridge for full rope length. Belay to a small flake.
Pitch 02 30m, Mod.
Continue along ridge, then move diagonally left to a large block, belay under overhang near corner.
Pitch 03 15m, V.Diff.
(Crux) Step on to the wall, bulging but with good holds, and traverse round the corner. Move along terrace to small flake belay.
Pitch 04 35m, V.Diff.
Traverse L and slightly up for 15m. Piton runner, then down for 15m following obvious line to the corner. Ption Belay.
Pitch 05 30m, V.Diff.
Climb corner directly. It is loose and dangerous. Care must be taken. Traverse R under overhang on large flake. Belay on chockstone below wide vertical crack.
Pitch 06 25m, Diff.
Climb the vertical crack, then a short walk to the summit.
Climbers: Craig and Wilson, 12.3.1967 (3 hours)